Manaslu Circuit, Day 12: Ghap to Lho. Long day walking through a forest with a hint of snow heavy in the air.
Day 11: Back on track
Manaslu Circuit, Day 11: Rejoining the trail and walking in good company brightened the mood from the deep loneliness and introspection of the previous day.
Day 10: Midway to Nowhere
Manaslu Circuit, Day 10: Midway through the trek and almost done with the first leg through Tsum Valley, the loneliness of the trail had never been more stark. Perhaps the exhaustion is catching up to me.
Day 8: Towards Tibet
Manaslu Circuit, Day 8: Flat fields of green provided welcome relief to the tough inclines we’d been climbing the past week. Fluttering Buddhist prayer flags and low mani walls added a sense of peace and direction.
Day 9: Where have the monks gone?
Manaslu Circuit, Day 9: With the Spring melt just coming, the monastery halls still echo empty with just a caretaker to wander the halls.
Day 7: Sonam
Manaslu Circuit, Day 7: A much-needed short rest day in Chhekamparo, where Sonam showed us her work in the fields.
Day 6: And then there were four
Manaslu Circuit, Day 6: Our team is down to four: three trekkers and our guide. With the sun in our faces and green all around, we wandered deeper into Tsum Valley.
Day 5: Into Tsum Valley
Manaslu Circuit, Day 5: As we walked into the chill morning, the air smelled like rain. “Jum jum,” Bikram said, looking up at the clouds. “Let’s go.” Turning off the main Manaslu Circuit, the trail wandered up and over a tall hill then down into Tsum Valley.
Day 4: Roadside dreams
Manaslu Circuit, Day 4: Walking with a burning fever isn’t exactly fun, but I got to check “sleeping on the side of the road in Nepal” off my list! And we made good miles in the end.
Day 3: Nepali flat
Manaslu Circuit, Day 3: Nepali flat: a little up and a little down, it all evens out in the end. We made our way up our first steep ascents and descents and encountered young girls playing a game from my childhood, an ocean away and decades apart.
Day 2: Ramra means beautiful
Manaslu Circuit, Day 2: As we encountered mule trains and locals on our first half-day of walking, I realized: I have no idea what’s going on. So many of my assumptions needed to be reevaluated. How could Nepal be hot not cold? How can I communicate when I have no words?
Nepal Bus Diaries
Manaslu Circuit, Day 1: The adventure begins in pre-dawn Kathmandu, leaving the busy city center for winding dust roads and Nepali tunes crooning through the radio tucked into the roof of the bus. The first test: keeping our stomachs on the colorful local bus taking us to the trailhead in Arughat Bazaar.