Day 11: Back on track

Manaslu Circuit, Day 11: Rejoining the trail and walking in good company brightened the mood from the deep loneliness and introspection of the previous day.

Day 10: Midway to Nowhere

Manaslu Circuit, Day 10: Midway through the trek and almost done with the first leg through Tsum Valley, the loneliness of the trail had never been more stark. Perhaps the exhaustion is catching up to me.

Day 8: Towards Tibet

Manaslu Circuit, Day 8: Flat fields of green provided welcome relief to the tough inclines we’d been climbing the past week. Fluttering Buddhist prayer flags and low mani walls added a sense of peace and direction.

Day 7: Sonam

Manaslu Circuit, Day 7: A much-needed short rest day in Chhekamparo, where Sonam showed us her work in the fields.

Day 5: Into Tsum Valley

Manaslu Circuit, Day 5: As we walked into the chill morning, the air smelled like rain. “Jum jum,” Bikram said, looking up at the clouds. “Let’s go.” Turning off the main Manaslu Circuit, the trail wandered up and over a tall hill then down into Tsum Valley.

Day 4: Roadside dreams

Manaslu Circuit, Day 4: Walking with a burning fever isn’t exactly fun, but I got to check “sleeping on the side of the road in Nepal” off my list! And we made good miles in the end.

Day 3: Nepali flat

Manaslu Circuit, Day 3: Nepali flat: a little up and a little down, it all evens out in the end. We made our way up our first steep ascents and descents and encountered young girls playing a game from my childhood, an ocean away and decades apart.

Day 2: Ramra means beautiful

Manaslu Circuit, Day 2: As we encountered mule trains and locals on our first half-day of walking, I realized: I have no idea what’s going on. So many of my assumptions needed to be reevaluated. How could Nepal be hot not cold? How can I communicate when I have no words?

Nepal Bus Diaries

Manaslu Circuit, Day 1: The adventure begins in pre-dawn Kathmandu, leaving the busy city center for winding dust roads and Nepali tunes crooning through the radio tucked into the roof of the bus. The first test: keeping our stomachs on the colorful local bus taking us to the trailhead in Arughat Bazaar.